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MATA ORTIZ CALENDAR OF EVENTS |
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The Window on the Mata Ortiz World |
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Maintained by Spencer and Emalie MacCallum |
Editorial Page
On this page we
invite guest editorials and letters to the editor. Go to the Home Page and click
on “Archives,” then on “Editorials,” for past discussions of a range of
interesting subjects.
Tourism under Siege
For whatever political reason besides taking attention off domestic issues in an
election year, it is United
States policy at the present time to discourage
tourism and promote disquiet along the border. Last week, a group who had made a
reservation with us canceled and asked for their deposit back because, on
calling the Border Patrol and asking about conditions at Palomas and other
border towns, they were told they should under no circumstances go into Mexico. It was
too dangerous, the officer said. A month earlier, a friend witnessed an officer
stop a bus of tourists about to cross at Palomas, board it, take the mike, and
tell the people on board, “None of you should be going to Mexico; it is
too dangerous.”
Yes, there have been shootings in Palomas, and it has even reached Casas Grandes.
There is violence everywhere; the year before last, we’re told, there were more
shootings in Tucson
than in Ciudad Juárez, a city three times larger, but the media does not report
such comparisons. What is important to note is that all of the shootings on the
border are targeted shootings, involving individuals actively involved in
narcotics trafficking. Not a single
tourist has ever been affected. I have been closely associated with the
Casas Grandes area for more than 30 years, and had there been a single instance
of violence against a visitor in all that time, I would have heard about it.
People would have said, “Spencer, such and such happened!” We have lived in
peacefully in Casas Grandes for four years, Many here don’t lock their doors at
night.
Nonetheless, tourism to
Mexico
is under siege. I belong to the Lions Club in Casas Grandes, where we’ve
discussed this at length. The
consensus is that, especially in these times of stress, tourism needs a helping
hand. What if anything might be done? One answer is very clear. Mexico is
shooting itself in the foot with its difficult border requirements. Let me
explain.
The entire State of Sonora,
to the west, is a free zone for visitors. No paper work is required for
Americans traveling anywhere in the state. By contrast, Chihuahua requires a tourist permit and a
vehicle permit to travel more than a limited number of miles into the interior.
Visitors crossing at Palomas are waved through, the Mexican border officer
perhaps assuming they are visiting locally. No one asks how far into Mexico
they are going. Although visitors may be aware that they have to get a car
permit, since they were waved through, they think it must not be yet. Perhaps
farther on. Big mistake! At the check point south of Janos, they will be asked
for their papers. If they don’t have them, they’ll be sent back 85 miles to the border. We
know personally at least a dozen people who have been caught in this; the total
numbers must be vastly greater. And what about visitors to Ascensión or Janos
who would like to extend their visit to Casas Grandes? No, they can’t do that;
they have to go back to the border.
Leaving
Mexico
can be even worse. No Mexican officer asks how far you traveled into Mexico,
assuming perhaps that you were only traveling locally. No one tells you that you
must cancel your car permit in the Customs office and have the officer scrape
off the sticker from your windshield, and that then you must find the
Immigration office and cancel your visitor’s visa. This is stated in Spanish in
fine print, and you are supposed to know it; ignorance of the law is no excuse!
Should you cross the border without canceling both permits, tired and looking
forward to getting home, you’ll find on your next visit to Mexico that fines have accumulated
on a daily basis from the expiration of your visa. As a special consideration
after some extended negotiation, the amount of the fine
might be reduced to some manageable amount in the neighborhood of
$200 USD.
Several friends have run afoul of the vehicle permit. One, who has a home here,
made a brief trip to the States within the period of the permit, intending to
return. He met with an accident and had to junk the car. He was not allowed to
enter Mexico with
another car, however, even though he had saved the sticker from his windshield
and had the bill of sale from the junk yard. How was the officer to know that
our friend had not sold his old car in Mexico? He would have to apply to Mexico City, and the
waiting period would be four to five months. In this case, it took a personal
trip to the border by the mayor of Casas Grandes to get him home again. Another
friend living here totaled her car. Unable to drive it to the border to cancel
her permit, she unfortunately junked it without thinking of the Byzantine maze
of implications. She is still without a car.
There are many more problems than these. A group of doctors wanting to donate
their time and services helping people in the Sierras were not allowed to enter
with their instruments and medicines. A local service club wanting to help local
people suffering from the effects of our 16-year drought has not been allowed to
bring in clean, ironed clothing gathered by cooperating service clubs in New Mexico. A
photographer who brought photographs of Mata Ortiz to exhibit at the Museum here
at Paquimé not only met with resistance at the border. She was not allowed to
donate the photographs to the Museum, but was told she had to return them to the
border by a certain date—physically accompanied by someone from the Museum!
Recently visitors remarked of friends who used to visit Chihuahua regularly but who no longer do, not
because they question the safety, but because they have tired of the border
hassle.
Is there no solution? Yes, there is. Visitors can travel as far as the Janos
checkpoint with no more than Mexican insurance—no paperwork from either customs
or immigration. The only restriction is a short list of items such as arms and
ammunition that mustn’t be brought into the country. The Janos checkpoint has
been moved twice in the years I have been coming to Mexico. It is now 20 miles before Nuevo Casas
Grandes. Why not simply move it to the other side of Nuevo Casas Grandes? Then
Nuevo Casas Grandes, the old pueblo of Casas Grandes, the archaeological ruins
of Paquimé, the village
of Mata Ortiz, and other
points of tourist interest would fall within the free-travel zone.
This solution has been talked about for years, but there has been no leadership
to make it happen. Now several members of the local Lions Club—of which Emi and
I are members—acting independently so as to insulate the Club out of any
political issues that might arise, have taken it on themselves to initiate an
effort to move the checkpoint. Their plan is to privately contact individual
members in all the service clubs and major business and professional groups in
the area. These would prevail upon their respective groups to unite in common
cause and appeal as one body to the town councils in the area, requesting that
these in turn jointly petition the state congress in Chihuahua City to make a
formal request to the federal government to authorize moving the checkpoint.
Should this happen, it would enormously boost the regional economy through
increased tourism. This in turn would help ease immigration pressure on the
border. It would also facilitate charitable programs and promote cultural
exchange and understanding. Imagine how it will help the economy of Mata Ortiz
for people to be able to freely drive back and forth from the United States with few or no
concerns about Mexican bureaucratic compliance.
Since Emi and I are so closely in touch with visitors, we will surely be called
upon to help pinpoint the kinds of bureaucratic friction that would disappear if
Casas Grandes were brought within an enlarged free-travel zone. So here at last
is the point of this long editorial: we are soliciting examples the kinds of
problems people encounter when traveling here. Have you had a discouraging
experience or do you know of someone who has? Do you know of statistics or do
you have ideas that might be helpful to the cause? Please let us know of them
(we’ll preserve your anonymity if you wish). Please do phone, write, or email
us. Our contact information is:
Spencer and Emalie MacCallum
Postal address: 713 W. Spruce #48,
Deming,
NM 88030
USA phone (rings in México): 915-261-0502
Residence: Avenida Victoria #420 y Revolución,
Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, Mexico 31850
Local phone in Mexico 636-692-4402
sm@look.net
emaliecaley@hotmail.com
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