MATA ORTIZ CALENDAR OF EVENTS

The Window on the Mata Ortiz World

Maintained by Spencer and Emalie MacCallum. Direct technical and website questions to: admin@blacklightningproductions.com

 

 Updated June 1 2010

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Classes & Tours

 

Here we give information about classes and track many of the scheduled tours to the Casas Grandes region. We are always glad to recommend classes/tours for your specific needs and interests. Tour companies do not offer tours during July and August because of the widespread assumption that Mexico, lying to the south, must be too hot in summer. Yet we prefer summer in some ways to spring, which is dry and sometimes windy. After mid-June the cooling rains begin, and the world turns emerald green. At 5,000 feet elevation, it never gets as hot as in much of the American Southwest. Rarely, in fact, do temperatures exceed 100 degrees F in summer or dip below freezing in winter. So if summer suits your personal calendar but you find no tours running, remember that it is convenient and easy to travel to this part of Mexico on your own. Always consider that as an option, and feel free to contact us with questions when planning your trip.

 

POTTERY CLASSES IN MEXICO

 

Many pottery families in Mata Ortiz and Casas Grandes offer excellent, comprehensive pottery classes covering all aspects of the Mata Ortiz approach to clay, from prospecting, digging, and preparing clay to hand-building a pot (usually the single-coil method developed by Juan Quezada), preparing the surface by sanding and burnishing, making brushes of human hair, painting the pot with natural slip colorants and, finally, open-air firing in dried cow chips or split wood. Students learn both reduction-firing and graphite techniques of making blackware as well as oxidation firing for white or polychrome ware. Translation is sometimes available, sometimes minimal, but as Juan Quezada points out, those who are going to get it will get it by observation, and when they get it that way, they’ve made a discovery and made it their own.

Perhaps the Cadillac of all workshops with Juan Quezada, and strangely the most economical, is that offered by Rancho Sierra Madre in the hill country above Mata Ortiz in August or September (see listing below).

          The following list of available classes provides some leads but is far from exhaustive. Many people come to the village without any prior arrangement and are surprised how readily they find someone to work with. For demonstrations or classes in the United States, consult the section “Exhibitions and Scheduled Events.”

                       

MATA ORTIZ   Fiesta Tours (520-398-9705) Cathy and Marshall Giesy arrange an eight-day class with leading potters in Mata Ortiz, where they maintain a second home and also guide tours (see below). Classes are $1300 per person, double occupancy, including travel to and from Tucson and expenses. Ask for a brochure. Also available are mini-classes at $595 per person double occupancy. Contact Cathy Giesy (voice/fax 520-398-9705), Fiesta Tours International, PO Box 2141, Tubac, AZ 85646-2141.  fti[at]starband.net   http://www.fiestatoursint.com/.

Daniel and Elda González (661-7068), sister of Gloria Hernández and Roberto Hernández, offer at the Posada a two-hour demonstration of building a pot. Ana Trillo then completes the demonstration by bringing pots to the Posada for sanding and burnishing, followed by a firing at her house. $10 USD per person for groups of 20 or more, $20 per person for smaller groups.

          Santos Ledezma and Rosa Loya (661-7020), above the Adobe Inn Hotel, offer a two-day class for any number up to ten people for $500 USD.

          Lucy Mora and husband Lorenzo Bugarini (661-7034) offer a five-day class for 10-20 persons at their home in Barrio Porvenir. $100 USD per person. [Incidental note: they also collect and deliver to the United States wholesale lots of pottery for New Mexico and Arizona buyers.)

          Pilo Mora (Cell 636-101-5635, 694-3311), one of Mata Ortiz’ master potters, occasionally teaches, not on a commercial basis but from the heart. He does not charge, but will give two weeks of instruction where there is a special interest in the art of Mata Ortiz.

          Paradise Valley College in Phoenix (602-787-6615) offers an annual, week-long workshop in Mata Ortiz, led by ceramics teacher David Bradley, mainly for people from the College but open to others. See details of itinerary and registration requirements below, under “Paradise Valley College.”

          Rosa Ponce and Julián Ledezma (661-7094) offer a six-day class for up to12 persons for $130 USD per person.  This class, running from 9-6pm daily and breaking for lunch from 1-3pm, includes prospecting, digging, and preparing clay, and all aspects of forming, decorating, and firing. Students often stay at the Posada de la Olla.

          Jerardo (“Jera”) Tena offers a three-day class. For information, rates, and availability, contact Tito Carrillo (520-290-0305, Cell 520-861-2068), Tortuga Tours, Box 12322, Tucson AZ 85732. www.carrillocurios.com

          Jesús Tena and nephew Mario (636-101-5255), Mata Ortiz, offer classes for groups of 6-10 persons for four days @ $100/person and for an additional $5/person provide a mid-day meal.

Ana Trillo (neighbor 636-661-7023), across from the elementary school near the Adobe Inn Hotel, offers both a light, three-day introductory class in pottery making for 3-4 persons for $30 per person, and an intensive, eight-to-ten-day workshop for up to ten persons for $100 per person. The introductory class works two hours each morning. The intensive workshop, at which all experience levels are welcome, is all day each day. Ana’s husband, Mónico Corona, and sister-in-law Sara assist. A trip to dig clay includes a visit to Mónico’s cattle ranch, located on an archaeological site where potsherds abound. Ana has made rapid progress in learning English, and translation is available. Classes are scheduled whenever there is interest. Mónico rents riding horses at $10 for two hours or $20 for all day. Children are welcome to ride his burros free. Contact Ana Trillo through a neighbor at (011-52) 636-661-7023 or email her at anatrillo_mataortiz70@hotmail.com

          Jesús Veloz and his wife Carmen Ledezma (Cell 636-103-0320), across from the church in Mata Ortiz and a couple of doors south, offer five-day pottery-making classes for small groups. Carmen studied with the Juan Quezada family. The week ends with a farewell fiesta. Ceramist David Bradley (602-787-6615) brings students from Paradise Valley College, Phoenix, for this class. $100/person tuition includes all materials but not room or board, although the first five people can room free with the Veloz. Contact Jesús and Carmen (in Spanish) by calling Marta Martínez’ caseta (voice/fax 661-7026) or their son (cell 103-0320) next door. Anyone in Mata Ortiz can be reached through a caseta. Call, ask in Spanish to speak to so-and-so, and someone will take the message and ask you to call back in 15 minutes. If all goes well, the person you want will be at the caseta for your second call. For language assistance in reaching the Veloz, you may call the Mata Ortiz Calendar on our El Paso line (915-261-0502) which rings in Mexico.

          Diego Valles, on the main corner in Barrio Porvenir, offers a five-day class or longer, for serious students.

 

CASAS GRANDES   Master potters César and Gaby Domíngez (692-4609) operate a gallery on the left side of the street two blocks before exiting Casas Grandes in the direction of Mata Ortiz. They offer demonstrations of forming, painting, and outdoor firing of pottery as well as workshops and individual instruction. They also buy and ship pottery for individuals and dealers. Contact them at 692-4609 or doal27[at]prodigy.net.mx

           Julián Hernández Chávez (cell 636-103-7108), director of the Escuela Preparatoria Federal Francisco Villa in Nuevo Casas Grandes, has expanded his Galería Casas Grandes into a teaching center as well as a gallery. Located by the entrance to the Museo de las Culturas del Norte in Casas Grandes, he offers two-week classes in pottery making and Spanish language. Pottery students learn all aspects of hand-building, decorating, and firing, with emphasis on the more archaeological Paquimé designs. Limited to 15 students, classes are six hours daily Mon-Fri 9-1 and 4-6pm, plus four hours Saturday. All skill levels are welcome. Included are field trips to dig clay and obtain minerals for natural slip colorants, plus two weekend day-trips to Mata Ortiz to visit with leading potters such as Hector and Graciela Gallegos, Macario Ortiz, Nicolás Ortiz, Juan Quezada, Armando Rodríguez, Lila Silveira, and Sabino Villalba. $300 tuition plus $120/week for room and board (two meals daily) with a Mexican family. Academic credits are available through the Escuela Preparatoria. The language classes provide total immersion and are formatted much like the pottery classes with field trips to places and events of interest in the region. $400 tuition plus cost of room and board. Participants for either class can be met at the border. No classes in 2010. Reservations are being taken for the 2011 summer season. Contact Julián Hernández Chávez (home 636-694-2220, school 636-694-1645, gallery 692-4176), Escuela Preparatoria Federal “Francisco Villa,” Avenida Colón 2101, APDO Postal 265, CP 31700, Nuevo Casas Grandes, Chihuahua, Mexico.  Juliaan_hernandez[at]yahoo.com.mx

          Nicolás Quezada (692-4483), brother of Juan Quezada and known internationally as a teacher (potters come from Germany to study with him, and he teaches on the summer faculty at Idyllwild Arts in California) offers in his Casas Grandes studio or anywhere in the United States a ten-day class for up to 12 persons for $1,500 USD. Spencer and Emi MacCallum, neighbors of Nicolás and authors of this web site, will assist students in finding accommodations and meals in Casas Grandes. Contact Nicolás Quezada at 636-692-4483 or in care of the MacCallums on their El Paso line (915-261-0502) which rings in Mexico, or email them at sm[at]look.net).

 

PUERTO VALLARTA   Galería Mata Ortiz (cell 322-222-7407) sponsors ceramic workshops for all experience levels conducted by master potters such as César and Gaby Domínguez, Jesús Martínez, and Elí Navarrete. Participants learn the distinctive Mata Ortiz methods of hand-building a pot, preparing the surface by sanding and burnishing, painting, and reduction or oxidation firing outdoors to create black or polychrome wares. Enrollment limited to 16. Tuition $500 USD includes all materials. Lodging is available in attractive surroundings for approximately $50 per day, double occupancy. Contact Claudia Lovera (322-222-7407), Galería Mata Ortiz, Lázaro Cárdenas 268-A, Col. Emiliano Zapata 48380, Puerto Vallarta, Jalisco, Mexico. clalex[at]pvnet.com.mx   www.mataortiz-pottery.com/

 

TOURS TO CASAS GRANDES / MATA ORTIZ

 

April 9-11                     Bridgemon Caravan Trips

May 22-28                    Southwest Adventures, Ltd.

September 14-18          Bridgemon Caravan Trips

August/September       Rancho Sierra Madre

November 13-16           Nature Treks & Passages

December 13-14           Fiesta Tours International

 

2011

January 14-17             Nature Treks & Passages

February 18-21            Nature Treks & Passages

March 24-27                Elderhostel/Exploritas (Geronimo Educational Fdn)

March 25-28                Nature Treks & Passages

 

 

Note: Nine additional tour groups offer some 200 tours a year to Copper Canyon that include a stop in this area. Listed at the end of this file, these are of interest because they start or end with a day in Casas Grandes, giving participants the option of coming early and joining the tour in Casas Grandes or tarrying afterwards—to visit Mata Ortiz and enjoy the laid-back attractions of this area.

 

THE TOUR GROUPS

A CLOSER LOOK TOURS   Agustín Caparros offers a three-day tour to the village for ten or more persons when there is interest. Departing Phoenix/Tucson in the early morning, the group travels through the mountain pass of the Sierra Madres, stops to see points of interest in Janos, which was the Spanish administrative center in the 1600s, and arrives that night at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes. All of the next day is devoted to the village of Mata Ortiz, visiting in the homes and workshops of pottery artists including the legendary Juan Quezada, recipient in 1999 of the Premio Nacional de los Artes, Mexico’s highest honor to a living artist. On the third day the group visits the archaeological site of Paquimé (1200-1450AD), once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world, and the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the foremost archaeological-site museums in North America, before returning home to the United States. Price double accommodation $492, single $554. Contact Agustín Caparros or his son, Collin (602-938-0951, toll-free 877-938-0951), A Closer Look Tours, Inc., Phoenix AZ  acloserlooktours[at]aol.com  www.acloserlooktours.com

 

AMERIND FOUNDATION   The Amerind Foundation, Dragoon, Arizona, excavated in 1959-1962 the archaeological site of Paquimé at Casas Grandes. It conducts yearly educational tours to Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz led by Geronimo Educational Foundation (which see below). The tour departs Dragoon by motor coach on Wednesday, lunching in Palomas, Chihuahua at the Pink Store (known for pleasant dining and one of the best selections of Mexican crafts in northern Mexico), then visiting the 17th-century church and Spanish archives at Janos, and arriving at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes for dinner and a slide talk by Spencer MacCallum on the beginning years of the Mata Ortiz art phenomenon and the legacy of Juan Quezada. On Thursday the tour visits the old pueblo of Casas Grandes with Spencer MacCallum as guide. After lunch with a private family at the historic Hacienda de San Diego, they explore the pottery village of Mata Ortiz, visiting in the homes of potters and seeing pottery being made by methods similar to those employed by the ancient peoples. In the evening, they attend a reception in Casas Grandes at the Museo de las Culturas del Norte with presentations by Dr. John Ware, director of the Amerind Foundation, and archaeologist Eduardo Gamboa, director of the Museo. Thursday morning, the group tour the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world (1200-1450 AD), excavated 1959-1962 by the Amerind Foundation and the Mexican government under the direction of Dr. Charles DiPeso and Mexican archaeologist Eduardo Contreras. After lunching with folklórico dancing at La Finca de Don Cruz in Casas Grandes, the group return to Arizona. $550 for members, of which $50 will be tax-deductible, and $590 for non-members, double occupancy (single supplement $50). Contact Jill Williams (520-586-3666, x 17) The Amerind Foundation, PO Box 400, Dragoon, AZ 85609  jillwilliams[at]amerind.org   www.amerind.org

 

ARCHAEOLOGICAL CONSERVANCY  For 17 years, the Conservancy has conducted tours throughout the Americas with expert guides who provide unique insights into the places visited. They offer a ten-day tour, Master Potters of the Southern Deserts along the following lines. Friday: Fiesta Inn, Phoenix, a cocktail party and introductory lecture on pottery. Saturday: Pueblo Grande, an ancient Hohokam platform mound complex, and the Heard Museum’s collection of Hohokam, Mimbres, and Southwestern pottery. Sunday: Hohokam sites of Casa Grande and Grewe, then to Tucson and Father Kino’s 17th-century mission of San Xavier del Bac and its restored interior murals, followed by an evening lecture on Hohokam pottery. Monday: The Sonoran Desert Museum for a behind-the-scenes tour of their pottery collection and an evening talk on the Hohokam culture. Tuesday: Western New Mexico University (Silver City) Museum’s private collection of Mimbres painted pottery, followed by an evening talk on Mimbres pottery. Wednesday: Travel through the Gila Wilderness to explore Gila Cliff Dwellings National Monument and several Mimbres villages. Thursday: Visit the Deming Museum and its Mimbres collections, then into Mexico to the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes and an evening orientation lecture about Casas Grandes. Friday: Tour the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America, and the ruins of Paquimé (1250-1450 AD), once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world. Hear Spencer MacCallum speak on the beginnings of the Mata Ortiz pottery movement. Saturday: Visit the home of Juan Quezada and of other potters in Mata Ortiz, witness techniques of forming, surface preparation, painting, and outdoor firing of pottery. Sunday: Travel to Wyndham El Paso Airport Hotel, in El Paso. Monday: Participants depart for home. $2,295/person double occupancy, $2,645 single. Next tour 2011. Contact James B. Walker (505-266-1540), Southwest Regional Director, The Archaeological Conservancy, 5301 Central Avenue NE, Suite 902, Albuquerque, NM 87108-1517.  tactours[at]nm.net  tacsw[at]nm.net  

 

ARGONAUT TOURS   Argonaut Tours has expanded its Copper Canyon tour program to include tours, whenever there is interest, from Tucson to Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz, spending two or three nights in the area. These tours happen about monthly. Argonaut is recommended for its fine understanding of the village. Contact Clara or Stuart Milton (520-325-4321 or toll-free 866-508-6877), owners, Argonaut Tours, 110 S. Church Ave., Suite 4290, La Placita Village, Tucson, AZ 85701.  argonaut.tours[at]cox.net  www.argonaut-tours.com [See description of their Copper Canyon tours at the end of this section.]

 

ARIZONA-SONORA DESERT MUSEUM   As part of its Sonoran Desert Studies Program, the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, Tucson, conducts two annual tours led by Ron and Sue Bridgemon*—“Mata Ortiz Experience” in April and “Mata Ortiz Celebration” in September. Both feature the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé and the pottery village of Mata Ortiz. However, the “Experience” also includes exploration of archaeological sites in the nearby Sierra Madre, while the “Celebration” takes in Mexican Independence Day (September 16) in Mata Ortiz with school-children’s parade, rodeo, and dance. Members $750 all inclusive, non-members $825 (double occupancy, $200 single supplement). These regular tours are on hold until 2011; however, Ron and Sue, who conduct the tours, will do the same tours this year as a caravan, where each party drives his own vehicle and they keep in touch by walkie-talkie, an arrangement that has proved highly popular. See Bridgemon Caravan Trips, below.

 

ARIZONA STATE MUSEUM   Every other year, scholars Paul and Suzy Fish of the Arizona State Museum at the University of Arizona in Tucson lead a Mata Ortiz Learning Expedition (on alternate years, they go to the Mexico City area). Limited to 12 persons, it often begins on a Thursday with a brief tour of the Museum’s prehistoric Casas Grandes collection, followed by stops at several points of interest en route south including the ruined Spanish church in Janos and stopping that night at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes. Friday visiting in the homes of potters in Mata Ortiz, lunch at the Adobe Inn and a pottery-making demonstration, followed by visits to the historic Hacienda de San Diego, the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures, with dinner at the Belgian restaurant Malmedy in Nuevo Casas Grandes. Saturday traveling to the archaeological sites of Cuarenta Casas in the Sierra Madre. Sunday return to Tucson by 7pm. Cost: Museum members $700, non-members $800, includes transportation, lodging, and meals. Next tour in 2011. Contact Darlene F. Lizarraga (520-626-8381), Marketing Coordinator, Office of Museum Advancement, Arizona State Museum, PO Box 210026, Tucson AZ 85721-0026  dfl[at]email.arizona.edu  www.statemuseum.arizona.edu/public/tours.shtml

 

BRIDGEMON CARAVAN TRIPS  Not only do Ron and Sue Bridgemon lead the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum’s spring and fall tours (see above), they conduct several caravan trips by private vehicle each year to Mata Ortiz. These informal car-pooling tours are an economical way to travel, each paying her or his own expenses en route and, while in Mata Ortiz, $90 USD per night for one person or $150 for two. Trips may be three days or four days, the longer trek including the Valley of the Caves and Cueva de la Olla in the Sierra Madre Mountains west of Mata Ortiz. Limited to about ten people, the caravan leaves from and returns to Douglas, Arizona. At Douglas, they may overnight at Motel 6, completing their paperwork at the border in the evening when the port is not busy in order to get off early after breakfasting at the historic Gadsden Hotel. The trip includes several interesting stops along the way and at least two nights in Mata Ortiz, where Ron and Sue have a second home by the Posada de las Ollas. Caravaners have ample time in the village for pot purchases and for visits in the homes and workshops of the famous potters. Horse riding is available. As opportunity arises, participation in local events such as weddings, dances, rodeos, parades, or horse races completes the Mata Ortiz experience. Among other points of interest are the ruins of Paquimé (1250-1450 AD), once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world, and the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America. The caravan visits the historic Hacienda de San Diego for lunch and a tour. Next caravan trip will be September 14-18. Ron and Sue are available to guide custom tours. Contact Ron or Sue Bridgemon (520-744-2243), 4545 W. Flying Diamond, Tucson AZ 85742   sbridgemon[at]q.com 

 

CELEBRATION OF OUR MOUNTAINS   This annual, month-long festival of events to celebrate the El Paso regional environment, sponsored among others by the University of Texas at El Paso (UTEP), traditionally includes a bus tour to Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz led by Maria Trunk and Randy Limbird. The group leaves early Friday and returns late on Sunday. Immerse yourself in art, archaeology and the rugged scenery of northern Chihuahua. The itinerary includes visits to the ancient city of Paquimé, the historic Hacienda de San Diego, an excursion into the Sierra Madre, and an afternoon in the village of Mata Ortiz, world-renowned for its exquisite pottery. An archaeologist familiar with the Paquimé site and environs will be on board to provide insight. Limited to 30 persons. Cost of $100 per person includes transportation, two breakfasts and lunches, admission, and interpretive program fee. Saturday dinner will be on your own, but you are welcome to join the trip leaders at El Mesón del Kiote restaurant in Casas Grandes (Pueblo Viejo). We will reserve blocks of rooms at hotels in Nuevo Casas Grandes, but participants pay their own lodging costs. The Hotel Hacienda charges approximately $65 USD per night double occupancy, the Motel Piñon $35. Next tour will be in 2011. Contact Randy Limbird (915-542-1422) randy[at]epscene.com)   www.celebrationofourmountains.org/

 

CIENEGA SPA SALON   Robin and Pam Hogan offer eight-day tours to Mata Ortiz and Copper Canyon, visiting Mata Ortiz on a Sunday, then on to Creel, Cerocahui and Urique Canyon by train for two nights in El Fuerte, where they visit the Capomo and Mayo Indians, returning to deliver needed items to the Tarahumara Indian School in Creel, and arriving in Casas Grandes Saturday afternoon. Sunday includes a visit to the ruins of Paquimé (1200-1450 AD), once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world, the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America, and the historic Hacienda de San Diego. $1500/person double occupancy, $1650 single. Cienega also offers on occasion a week-long tour of 6-15 persons to Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz for cultural and language immersion. This group stays in Casas Grandes in a restored, hacienda-like adobe off the plaza furnished with local antiques (and equipped with wireless Internet, so bring a laptop if you wish). From here they visit archaeological and historic sites, hear a slide-talk by Spencer MacCallum on the early years of the Mata Ortiz pottery phenomenon, and enjoy a fiesta night with live music, food, and open invitation to the pueblo. Pottery-making and regional cooking classes are available. $850 all inclusive from Silver City. Contact Robin or Pam Hogan (575-534-1600), Tour Leaders, Cienega Spa Salon, 101 N. Cooper St, Silver City, NM 88061.  info[at]cienegaspasalon.com

 

COCHISE COLLEGE GROUP  Cochise College’s Center for Lifelong Learning conducts several tours a year to the Casas Grandes region, both on its own and providing logistical support for other organizations. Most tours are limited to 12 persons. The groups depart the Douglas campus of Cochise College on a Friday, traveling to the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes for dinner and a lecture on area culture and history. Next morning, they visit an adobe restoration project involving several homes in historic Casas Grandes and then continue to Colonia Juárez, founded by Mormons in the 1880s, on their way to Mata Ortiz, where they have a leisurely time visiting in potters’ homes and workshops, returning by way of the historic Hacienda de San Diego. On Sunday morning, they tour more of the pueblo of Casas Grandes, attending a pottery demonstration by the Manuel Olivas family and visiting the archaeological site of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures. After lunch at the Mesón del Kiote, they return to Arizona, arriving at Cochise College in Douglas at approximately 6pm. The cost of $285 per person double occupancy ($60 single supplement) includes transportation from Douglas Campus, hotel two nights, meals except for one dinner, entry fees, and lectures. Contact Rebecca Orozco (800-966-7943 Ext 4772, 520-515-5382 or, to register, 520-515-5492), Director, Center for Southwest Studies, Cochise College, 40-90 W. Hiway 80, Douglas AZ 85607  orozcor[at]cochise.edu   www.cochise.edu/workforcetraining

 

COPPER CANYON GUIDE  For 30 years, James Barnaby (“Santiago” in Mexico or “Jim” in the USA), from Bozeman, Montana, has been exploring and living seasonally six months a year in the Copper Canyon. Jim has a BFA, MA and MFA in ceramics. He has guided tours in the Copper Canyon for 28 years and is knowledgeable about the Tarahumara people and their traditions. Jim offers a unique tour for pottery enthusiasts: A Comparative Study of Two Ceramic Traditions: Panalachi and Mata Ortiz. Beginning and ending in Chihuahua City, the group spends a day in the Tarahumara pottery village of Panalachi, where women make and men decorate and fire their family pottery storage containers, and then to Mata Ortiz for three days at the Posada de las Ollas by the old plaza, visiting in the homes and workshops of leading potters and observing all aspects of the distinctive Mata Ortiz ways of handling clay. En route from Panalachi to Mata Ortiz, the itinerary includes a visit to the cliff dwellings of Cuarenta Casas near Madera and, in Casas Grandes, the ruins of Paquimé (1250-1450 AD), once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world. The famous Paquimian ceramics inspired the florescence of pottery at Mata Ortiz. Also at Paquimé is the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America. The group arrives back in Chihuahua City in time for a small amount of sight-seeing. Limited to ten persons. For 6-7 persons, $2300 USD/person double occupancy; 8-9 persons, $2100; ten persons $1988 (single supplement $320). Contact Santiago James Barnaby (406-587-3585), PO Box 203, Bozeman MT 59771, or US associate Chandler Dayton (406-570-0570). www.coppercanyonguide.com  adventure[at]coppercanyonguide.com

 

DARLENE CONOLY TRAVEL   Although Darlene Conoly arranges tours worldwide, her favorite is Mata Ortiz. She regularly hosts museum groups such as the Beaumont Art Museum, the San Antonio Museum of Latin American Art, the Southwest Arts & Crafts Center in San Antonio, and the Corpus Christi Art Museum. “Dar” favors what she calls “soft adventure,” enjoying the unusual in the vicinity of Mata Ortiz including prehistoric rock art and bathing in the hot springs near the historic Hacienda San Diego. Knowing what it takes for folks to enjoy themselves comes naturally to Dar, whose family owns the oldest dude ranch in the State of Texas. University of New Mexico anthropologist Bob Estes, who has done field work in the village, frequently accompanies the tours to Mata Ortiz. Groups range from 10-16 people. $600 for five days, excluding air fare from San Antonio or other transportation to the meeting point at noon on the border at Martha’s B&B (505-531-2467) in Columbus, NM. Next tour will be in 2011. Ask for the quarterly newsletter. Contact Darlene Conoly (361-358-2364; 800-621-6008), PO Box 489, 1209 N. Washington Street, Beeville TX 78104  darconolytvl[at]yahoo.com

 

DAVISVILLE TRAVEL  Diane Hamlyn conducts several guided field seminars each year to Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz, accompanied by John W. (Jack) Barry, naturalist/historian and author of American Indian Pottery: An Identification and Value Guide. Groups average 15 to 20 persons. Leaving from Tucson, the group enjoys on the way a picnic and tour of the Amerind Foundation in Dragoon, AZ, then spends the first evening at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes, where they hear an entertaining talk on the archaeology and history of the area. The following two days are spent in and around Mata Ortiz, staying at the comfortable Adobe Inn, visiting with potters, seeing rock art in the mountain above the village, and finally visiting the settlement of Colonia Juarez, colonized by the Mormons in the 1880s. Returning the third night to the Hacienda Hotel, several leading potters join the group for dinner and show their work. $995 USD double occupancy (single supplement $250). Contact Shirlee McKibbin (800-255-4567, 916-448-1951, Fax 530-758-4510), Davisville Travel, 420 Second St, Davis CA 95616.   Shirlee[at]davisvilletravel.com   www.goOntour.com Diane@davisvilletravel.com  

 

ELDERHOSTEL/EXPLORITAS - GERONIMO EDUCATIONAL FDN  The Geronimo Educational Foundation has guided tours to Mata Ortiz since 1993, including as many as 15 Elderhostel programs a year for persons 55 and older. Note that Elderhostel has now changed its name to “Exploritas.” Frank Ortega leads these groups, which range from 10 to 40 persons plus tour escorts and instructors. They leave from the historic Gadsden Hotel in Douglas AZ for a day-and-a-half or two full days in Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz. Participants attend lectures, tour the ruins of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures in Casas Grandes, see the widely accredited Mormon academy, visit in homes and workshops of potters in Mata Ortiz, witness a pottery-making demonstration, and enjoy an informal slide talk by Spencer MacCallum on the beginning years of the Mata Ortiz art movement and the artistic legacy of Juan Quezada. Exploritas offers two programs, one of three days (“Archaeology and Modern Pottery in Chihuahua, Mexico”) and one of six (“Ancient Culture Revisited: Art and Archaeology in Arizona and Mexico”). The latter spends a little more time in Mexico and explores parts of Arizona as well. Tuition is $400 for the shorter and $800 for the longer program, double occupancy (single occupancy $90 and $140 additional). Tuition is all-inclusive (food, lodging, transportation, lectures, entry fees, gratuities). A new, week-long tour just inaugurated features several days in Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz and an overnight to Madera and the archaeological site of Cuarenta Casas for $875 (double occupancy). Geronimo also leads tours for other organizations and institutions such as the Amerind Foundation (which see below). Next Exploritas tour will be March 24-27, 2011. Contact Carol Moore (520-432-5534, 888-218-4918), Geronimo Educational Foundation, PO Drawer B, Bisbee AZ 85603. geronimoet[at]cableone.net  www.exploritas.org (click on “Domestic Programs” and select #4008 for the short tour or #1035 for the longer).

 

FIESTA TOURS INTERNATIONAL   Cathy and Marshall Giesy are well known for their “learning experience” tours to Central and South America. They offer short van tours of three or four days to Mata Ortiz for small groups (nine-to-a-van, maximum of 20 persons), staying overnight in the village. These tours are custom-designed with a special focus such as photography/sketching or archaeology/rock art, accompanied by an artist, archaeologist or other appropriate person. $495 per person all inclusive, double occupancy ($75 single supplement) for three days or $595 for four. A Copper Canyon tour ending with a full day in Mata Ortiz is sometimes offered as well. This tour is $2,395 double occupancy and is limited to 16 people (eight per van). The next tour will be of this kind, staying two nights December 13-14, 2010. Contact Cathy Giesy (voice/fax 520-398-9705), Fiesta Tours International, PO Box 2141, Tubac, AZ 85646-2141.  fti[at]starband.net   http://www.fiestatoursint.com/

 

GAVILÁN GUIDE AND TOUR SERVICE   John Hatch, of the prominent Mormon family of that name in Col. Juarez, provides a unique service—arranging small tours that people can plan and schedule for themselves. At a cost of $100 per day + expenses, he provides transportation in a comfortable, 15-passenger van from Colonia Juárez or from any of three border-crossing points (El Paso TX, Douglas AZ, Deming NM), and guides anywhere in the states of Chihuahua, Sonora, and Sinaloa, the last utilizing the Chihuahua-Pacific railroad. He now offers in addition two tours of three and five days, called respectively “Parrots, Pottery & Paquimé” and “P3 and Pacific.” The first consists of a day visiting the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, the Museum of Northern Cultures, and some other points of interest in the old pueblo of Casas Grandes; a day at the pottery village of Mata Ortiz; and during season (April-October) a day of birding at Gómez-Fárias, a major nesting area of the Thick-Billed Parrot. To these and other options, the longer tour adds the spectacular train ride from Creel, in the Copper Canyon, to the Pacific coast, over-nighting in the Spanish-colonial fortified town of El Fuerte and returning to Creel the next day. These tours can be scheduled whenever there is interest, Parrots, Pottery & Paquimé typically running Monday thru Wednesday and P3 and Pacific Monday thru Friday.

          John has traveled extensively in northern Mexico and particularly in the Sierra Madres, beginning as a boy accompanying his doctor father who traveled to remote locations and worked under extreme conditions. Wholly bilingual and bicultural, he graduated from Brigham Young University, taught school for 25 years in Colonia Juárez  (ecology, history, English, physics), has researched the history of the Mormon colonies in Mexico, and has guided or otherwise been involved in numerous wildlife and historical expeditions into the Sierra Madre region. Contact John or Sandra Hatch (direct USA line 480-704-4596, Mexico line 636-695-0111, Cell 044-636-102-3526), Col. Juarez, Chihuahua, Mexico. jandshatch[at]yahoo.com   http://www.gavilantours.com/

 

GERONIMO EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION   Geronimo has long experience in organizing and leading tours for institutions and organizations, among others Elderhostel, which recently changed its name to Exploritas, and the Amerind Foundation. The next Exploritas tours will be March 24-27, 2011. Contact Carol Moore (520-432-5534, 888-218-4918), Geronimo Educational Foundation, PO Drawer B, Bisbee AZ 85603.  geronimoet[at]cableone.net 

 

JIM GLENDINNING’S MEXICO   Jim Glendinning leads a five-day tour by van from El Paso to Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz. Limited to ten persons, they leave on a Wednesday and arrive at the Hotel Villa Colonial in Nuevo Casas Grandes where they meet popular tour guide Diana Acosta. On Thursday, they tour some restored adobes in Casas Grandes and visit the archaeological site of Paquimé (1250-1450 AD), once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world, and the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America. At dinner at La Finca de Don Cruz, they enjoy a slide talk by Spencer MacCallum on the beginnings of the Mata Ortiz phenomenon and the legacy of Juan Quezada. That and the next two nights will be at Las Guacamayas, a bed-and-breakfast and art gallery built using the same construction techniques of rammed earth as were used in the prehistoric pueblo of Paquimé. On Friday, they visit a lapidary in Casas Grandes where local, semi-precious stones are cut, polished, and made into jewelry, then a church with remarkable murals replicating the 17th-century church of a now ruined Franciscan mission. They next visit Colonia Juárez, settled by Mormon pioneers in the 1880s, then have a luncheon and tour at the historic Hacienda de San Diego, en route to the pottery village of Mata Ortiz. During the afternoon, they visit in the homes and workshops of pottery artists of Mata Ortiz, including world renowned Juan Quezada, and witness a pottery-making demonstration and outdoor firing. On Saturday, the group visits the Arroyo de los Monos rock-art site in the morning, followed by an afternoon of rest and/or assisted shopping and personal exploration, and in the evening a farewell dinner. On Sunday, they lunch at the famous Pink Store in Palomas on their way to El Paso International Airport, arriving there by 3pm. $625 double occupancy, $735 single. Contact Jim Glendinning (432-837-7320), 904 N. 11th Street, Alpine TX 79830. jimglen2[at]sbcglobal.net  www.mexicosmallgroups.com/casasgrandes.html

 

JOHN BEZY, INC.   John Bezy nearly every month guides short educational tours of two nights/three days to the Casas Grandes area, headquartering at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes. Participants learn a great deal about the natural history (geology and vegetation) of the region as well as its settlement history from the Indians to the present. After visiting the ruins of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures, they stop at Colonia Juarez, settled by Mormons in the 1880s, and learn some of the history of the Mormon colonies. Finally, they visit in the homes and workshops of artists in the pottery village of Mata Ortiz. Cost $255 for transportation (food and lodging is separate and runs approximately $170 for two people for two nights). Next tours 2011. Contact John Bezy (520-825-2451), 64118 E. Meander Dr., Tucson AZ 85739.  johnbezyinc[at]earthlink.net.

 

JOHN M. PHELAN   John (“JP”) Phelan offers a three-day tour to Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz for groups of 8-20 people. The tour is sponsored by the Hospitality Club of Las Cruces, NM. Headquartering in Nuevo Casas Grandes, the group spend the first morning in Casas Grandes, visiting the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures, then lunch with a private family at the historic Hacienda de San Diego. In the afternoon, they visit in the homes of artists in the pottery village of Mata Ortiz and see a demonstration of hand-building, painting, and outdoor firing of pottery. Returning, they tour the Mormon colony of Colonia Juárez, colonized in the 1880s. $370/person double occupancy, $399 single. Contact John Phelan (575-647-2703), 2103 Vista Lejano, Las Cruces, NM 88005-3949.  mpjpmm[at] hotmail.com.

 

KRUSEARIZONA TOURS   Alan Kruse offers a coach tour to Mata Ortiz arriving Nuevo Casas Grandes Thursday for dinner at the Hotel Hacienda and a slide talk by Spencer MacCallum on the beginning years of the Mata Ortiz pottery phenomenon and the artistic legacy of Juan Quezada. Friday begins with a visit to the Museum of Northern Cultures and the ruins of Paquimé, once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world (1200-1450 AD), followed by a tour and luncheon with the Acosta family in their home, the historic Hacienda de San Diego. After a brief tour of Colonia Juárez, colonized by Mormons in the 1890s, dinner is at the Belgian restaurant, Malmedy, Near the Hotel. On Saturday, the group attends a pottery-making demonstration in Casas Grandes by master potters José and Leonel Quezada at Galería Las Guacamayas. This gallery, built following the same construction methods as the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, offers a rare selection of high-end Mata Ortiz pottery. After lunch at La Finca de Don Cruz restaurant in Casas Grandes, a leisurely afternoon is spent in the village of Mata Ortiz, visiting in the homes and workshops of pottery artists. Dinner is at the Algremi restaurant in Nuevo Casas Grandes. On Sunday, the group returns to Tucson, visiting enroute the Mennonite settlement of Capulín and lunching at the popular Pink Store on the border at Palomas. $495 double occupancy, $595 single. Next tours 2011. Contact Alan Kruse (520-881-1638), KruseArizona Tours, 4517 E. Patricia Place, Tucson AZ 85712.  krusearizona[at]cox.net 

 

MARIPOSA TOURS    Lisa Silva conducts five-day “Explorer” trips from Albuquerque to Mata Ortiz, typically on the following pattern: Day 1—Luna Mimbres Museum in Deming and City of Rocks. Day 2—Pancho Villa State Park and Mata Ortiz for art pottery and pottery-making demonstrations. Day 3—Mata Ortiz for rodeos on national holidays (all tours except Labor Day weekend feature rodeos), a visit to the historic Hacienda de San Diego, and a short hike to explore the Arrollo de los Monos petroglyph site. Day 4—Casas Grandes, the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, and the Museum of Northern Cultures. Day 5—returning and exploring Rockhound State Park, NM. $495/person double occupancy ($150 single supplement), includes all lodging, transportation and meals. Combination Copper Canyon/Mata Ortiz tours are also available, as well as five-day pottery workshops. The workshops are a seven-day trip with five half- days of workshop with master potter Diego Valles. Mornings are devoted to learning all aspects of pottery making, afternoons to visiting surrounding sites (Paquimé; lapidary, wood and silver workshops; Arroyo de los Monos petroglyph site; and the City of Nuevo Casas Grandes). $795 USD double occupancy, exclusive of meals. Context-based Spanish lessons can be taken prior to the trip. Email Lisa Silva at info[at]mariposatours.org  www.mariposatours.org

 

MIMBRES REGION ARTS COUNCIL  Each spring the Mimbres Region Arts Council (MRAC) and Western New Mexico University (WNMU) Museum in Silver City NM, conduct a moderate-cost “Art and Culture Tour of Northern Chihuahua.” Museum director and Southwest archaeologist Dr. Cynthia Ann Bettison and Faye McCalmont, MRAC executive director, lead the tour and explain local history at sites along the way such as the Plaza de Armas at Ascensión, the two ruined Janos churches, the Mormon colonies of Col. Dublán and Col. Juárez, the old pueblo of Casas Grandes, the Paquimé ruins, Hacienda de San Diego, and Mata Ortiz. $800 USD per person double occupancy (single supplement $120) for MRAC or WNMU Museum Members (membership $25 individual, $40 family, $20 student) or $900 non-members. Limited to 25 persons. Next tour 2011. Contact the Mimbres Region Arts Council (575-538-2505 or 888-758-7289), Box 1830, Silver City, NM 88062   info[at]mimbresarts.org     www.mimbresarts.org

 

MOVIN’ MINERS  The University of Texas at El Paso (UTEP), through its travel group, Movin’ Miners, usually makes available to its members each year a three-day Casas Grandes Paquimé Ruins & Potters of Mata Ortiz tour. UTEP anthropologist Ben Brown accompanies the group as educator. Non-members are assessed $30 each or $50 per couple for annual dues (persons not enrolled in UTEP can accompany the tour as “Friends” of the University). The next trip, planned for 2011, will be more extensive, going to Copper Canyon and ending with one day in Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz. For costs or other information, contact Bill Dethlefs or Lee Nelson at 915-747-8600, Cell 915-525-1533, or email lnelson[at]utep.edu   

 

NATURE TREKS & PASSAGES   This enterprise offers four-day birding and cultural tours of the Mata Ortiz/Casas Grandes region. Participants travel in vans from the Tucson and Phoenix areas to the Amerind Foundation in Dragoon, AZ for an overview of the archaeological history of the American Southwest and Northwest Mexico, then birding at Whitewater Draw near Wilcox, and overnight in Bisbee. On the second day they visit the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures in the 17-century pueblo of Casas Grandes, followed by refreshments at the La Finca de Don Cruz restaurant and a slide talk by Spencer MacCallum on the beginning years of the Mata Ortiz phenomenon and the artistic legacy of Juan Quezada. They stay that night and the next in Mata Ortiz at the Adobe Inn, operated by master potter Jorge Quintana. In the morning, after birding along the Palanganas River, they have a leisurely time exploring the village, visiting potters in their homes and workshops, and witnessing pottery-making and outdoor-firing of pottery. On the final day, they do more birding outside the Mormon town of Colonia Juárez and return to Arizona by that evening. Cost $999 per person double occupancy (single $100 additional). Next scheduled trips will be November 13-16 and, in 2011, January 14-17, February 18-21, and March 25-28. Contact Debra Tranberg (781-789-8127), owner, Nature Treks & Passages, PO Box 542, Bryanville, MA 02357.  info[at]naturetreks.net  drtranberg[at]hotmail.com www.naturetreks.net/Mata_Ortiz_Birding_Pottery_NT.htm

 

PARADISE VALLEY COLLEGE    For ten years, ceramics teacher David Bradley has conducted an annual, week-long workshop in Mata Ortiz, chiefly for people from Paradise Valley College in Phoenix but open to others. Participants depart by van from the college campus at Union Hills Drive and 32nd Street in Phoenix, and arrive that evening in Mata Ortiz at the Posada de las Ollas for supper and a slide talk by Spencer MacCallum on the beginning years of the Mata Ortiz phenomenon and the artistic legacy of Juan Quezada. During five days in the village, Jesús and Carmen Veloz teach all aspects of pottery making from digging clay and making one’s own tools to forming, painting, and firing the finished piece outdoors in dried cow chips or split wood. Each student ends up with at least one fired pot. Afternoons are free for visiting potters in the village. Evenings are spent practicing using the Mata Ortiz style paint-brushes and getting acquainted with the villagers’ design approach. A day trip is made to the mountains to visit the Cueva de la Olla, an awe inspiring archaeological site. A tour and lunch is scheduled with the Acosta family at their historic Hacienda de San Diego. On the final morning before returning to Phoenix, the group visits the Museum of Northern Cultures and the ruins of Paquimé, once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world, and the MacCallums’ adobe restoration project in the old pueblo of Casas Grandes. $800 includes three college credits, transportation, meals in the village, and artist fees. Cost does not include meals en route, tips, or purchases. Limited to 16 people. No pottery experience necessary. Register in March (when summer class schedules come out) for the spring workshop by calling Paradise Valley College at 602-493-2669 and signing up for Art295GC in the summer semester. There will be an orientation meeting, usually in early May, and all moneys will be due by that date. The next workshop will be in late May or early June, 2011 (dates yet to be announced). Contact David Bradley (602-787-6615), 1639 E Juniper Ave., Phoenix 85022.  david.bradley[at]pvmail.maricopa.edu

 

THE PINK STORE  in Palomas, on the border opposite Columbus NM, offers one- and two-day excursions to Casas Grandes and Mata Ortiz for $60 and $85 USD plus meals and lodging, which are on your own. The Pink Store, incidentally, is known for its outstanding restaurant/cocktail lounge in Mexican décor and one of the best selections of Mexican crafts in northern Mexico. Groups of five or more (less if they pay for the missing persons) can go any day, and there is often a wait list of people who can make up that number. Contact Luís Benavides or Ivonne Romero at the store (866-474-4299, rings in Mexico, or cell 011-52-1-656-308-1491).

 

RANCHO SIERRA MADRE - ESCUELA DE LOS ARTES   Jim and Jo Jarvis in 1998 began offering a one-week class taught by Juan Quezada at their working ranch near the Cueva de la Olla in the Sierra Madres three hours west of Mata Ortiz. Here Juan Quezada teaches all aspects of the distinctive Mata Ortiz clay technique which he originated. You will see and experience at this ranch, which has been in the Jarvis family since 1878, a lifestyle untouched by telephone, electricity, or Internet (emergency radio available). No previous clay experience is necessary. Groups caravan from and to Windmill, New Mexico, visiting on the way down the superb Museum of Northern Cultures at Casas Grandes and the Mormon settlement of Colonia Juárez, stopping briefly, both going and coming, at Mata Ortiz. Extracurricular opportunities at the ranch include rock hounding (particularly fire agate), exploring cliff dwellings, and birding. Prehistoric rock art, both pictographs and petroglyphs, are within a ten-minute walk. Western New Mexico University in Silver City grants two academic credits. Tuition of $900 per person covers all expenses including travel from Windmill (near Animas, New Mexico, south of Lordsburg). Eight full days of instruction and two days of travel. No dates are set, but for a minimum group of ten the Jarvises and Juan Quezada will be available in August or September, a time when the mountains will be their prettiest with wildflowers in full bloom. This is Juan Quezada’s favorite of his various workshops. Contact Jim or Jo Jarvis (575-436-2589), Cell 575-538-1854), HC 65 Box 634, Animas NM 88020.  snjjarvi[at]hotmail.com   www.ranchosierramadre.com/pottery.htm

 

RECURSOS TRAVEL & EDUCATION   Pamela Kahlo-Fina, an exceptional Spanish language educator for many years with Berlitz School of Languages in Spain, New York City and Argentina, is much involved in the village, where she maintains a home and is a longstanding friend of the Manuel Mora family. Once or twice monthly she takes groups on 3-5-day trips from Tucson for immersion in culture and language but frequently in pursuit of other interests as well (Tucson artist Robert Varga, for example, painted several murals of the Virgin of Guadalupe on the interior walls of potters’ homes while practicing Spanish). Custom area tours are also available, guided by Pamela, with lodging in two adobe homes in Mata Ortiz. Language-immersion tours are $200 - $400 USD per person, depending on the intensity of the language program. Pamela accommodates one to eight persons per trip, three in her vehicle and others pooling or caravanning. Contact Pamela Kahlo-Fina (520-327-1087), 3550 Camden, Tucson, AZ 85716  mpmermaids[at]aol.com http://www.rtemexico.com/spanish.htm 

 

RIDEMEXICO   Susan Shields, of RideMexico, and Norberto Padilla, of Aventurero, usually collaborate on horseback tours but now offer a three-day auto tour (private cars are welcome to convoy) to Casas Grandes, Paquimé, Hacienda de San Diego, and Mata Ortiz. Crossing at Naco, Arizona, they arrive at Nuevo Casas Grandes’ Hotel Hacienda in time for lunch and an afternoon at Casas Grandes (Pueblo Viejo). In the morning of the second day, they tour the Museum of Northern Cultures and the ruins of Paquimé, once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world. That afternoon, they visit the Mormon community of Colonia Juárez, colonized in the 1880s, the historic Hacienda de San Diego, now being stabilized and restored by the Acosta family living there, and artists’ homes and workshops in the pottery village of Mata Ortiz. $425 per person, double occupancy (single room $75 additional). Susan and Norberto can accommodate 2 to 6 people in their own vehicle. Tours run whenever there is interest. Contact Susan Shields (520-455-5670) at laquerencia[at]theriver.com or Norberto Padilla Rodríguez at elaventurero[at]hotmail.com.

 

SOLIPASO TOURS (Birding)  David and Jennifer Mackay lead custom birding tours throughout Mexico. Their five-day Sierra Madre tour, from Tucson in a 15-passenger, custom van, focuses on the old-growth pine forests, high mesas and canyons of the northern Sierra Madres around Madera, two hours south of Mata Ortiz. The tour includes a brief visit to Mata Ortiz on the fifth day. This trip targets the Thick-Billed Parrot, nesting at elevations over 8,000 feet and requiring a specialized habitat of dead old-growth trees for its nest cavities. Other birds in the area include Eared Quetzal, Pine Flycatcher, Spotted Wren, and Aztec Thrush. $750/person, all-inclusive with double-occupancy (single available at extra charge). Contact David or Jennifer Mackay (520-241-6682), Solipaso S.A. de C.V., Calle Obregon #3, Alamos, Sonora, Mexico (USA postal address: PO Box 85580, Tucson AZ 85754).   info[at]solipaso.com www.solipaso.com

 

SOUTH OF THE BORDER TOURS  Stephen and Debbie Bernier conduct a luxury motor coach tour from Tucson to Mata Ortiz for various museums and other institutions as well as on their own. They schedule three nights at the Adobe Inn in Mata Ortiz in order to allow two full days in the village. The first morning, Spencer MacCallum, who played a pivotal role in the artistic development of Mata Ortiz, offers a slide presentation about the beginning years of the Mata Ortiz phenomenon and the legacy of Juan Quezada, and Juan Quezada demonstrates at his home an outdoor pottery firing. For the rest of the day, the group has an opportunity to visit in the homes and workshops of pottery artists, followed in the evening by a discussion of the new silver jewelry of Mata Ortiz. The morning of the second day, the MacCallums offer a tour of their adobe conservation project in the historic old pueblo of Casas Grandes. There follows a visit to the ruins of Paquimé, once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world, and the Museum of Northern Cultures, one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America. After a tour and lunch at the historic Hacienda de San Diego, the remainder of the afternoon is free for further visiting with potters in Mata Ortiz and packing for the morning departure. After supper, Gordon Pierce, a resident of Mata Ortiz, gives an entertaining historical account of the Mennonites and Mormons in the area. $750 USD double occupancy. >>Contact Stephen or Debbie Bernier (520-760-4000), Owners, South of the Border Tours, 7937 E. Coronado Road, Tucson AZ 85750.

southofthebordertours[at]msn.com   www.southofthebordertours.com 

 

TORTUGA TOURS  (Tours on Request)  Tito Carrillo, Tucson, frequently conducts by request weekend tours of four to six people to Mata Ortiz, leaving Friday and returning Monday. (The name Tortuga, or “Turtle,” refers to Tito’s reputation for driving slowly and safely.) The group arrives in Nuevo Casas Grandes Friday afternoon, in time to visit the homes of several potters before settling in for the night at La Fuente Hotel. Saturday morning they visit the archaeological ruins of Paquimé, the Museum of Northern Cultures, the MacCallums’ adobe restorations near the plaza, and the Galería Las Guacamayas, home and gallery of Mayté Luján. Las Guacamayas is notable for having been built in the ancient manner of Paquimé, using poured adobe, a technique experimentally reconstructed by Juan Quezada, who also directed the initial construction. After stopping at the village of Colonia Juárez, colonized by the Mormons in the 1880s, the group arrives early enough at Mata Ortiz to visit the homes and workshops of several more artists. Saturday and Sunday nights are spent in the village at Marta Veloz’ clean and comfortable Casa de Marta (Marta is known for her cooking). Sunday is dedicated to visiting various artists in each of the five barrios of Mata Ortiz. The group returns to Tucson on Monday with short stops along the way. Tito often returns via Palomas and then west through the scenic country around Hachita, Arizona before regaining Interstate 10. $400 per person, not including meals and three nights lodging, for which add another $150. Contact Tito Carrillo (Cell 520-861-2068), Box 12322, Tucson AZ 85732   TurtleWinsTheRace[at]hotmail.com   www.carrillocurios.com

 

TUCSON BOTANICAL GARDENS   Offers a special tour by Ron & Sue Bridgemon to explore the village of Mata Ortiz in northern Chihuahua, Mexico, home of the highest-quality hand-built ceramics in the world. Visit potters in their homes and workshops and see them using techniques similar to those of the prehistoric Indians. Ron & Sue have led eco-adventure tours into Mexico for more than 15 years. They have a home in Mata Ortiz and a strong friendship with the potters. This will be a unique opportunity to experience the village and purchase memorable pottery directly from the artists. Enjoy lunch with a private family in their historic hacienda de San Diego and hear stories about Pancho Villa. The first battle of the revolution of 1910 took place nearby. In Casas Grandes, visit one of the best archaeological-site museums in North America and tour the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, once the largest and most complex community in the Puebloan world. Limited to 10 persons. $575 for members includes transportation, lodging, meals. Non-members $635. Double occupancy, single supplement $250. $150 is tax-deductible. Special cancellation policy applies. Contact Tucson Botanical Gardens (520-326-9686 ext. 18) continuinged[at]tucsonbotanical.org)

 

WILLIAM “BILLY” MARTINEAU  An authentic old hand in the Sierras and experienced mule handler. Bilingual and Mormon, Billy is available for camping, mountaineering, knows the mines from Copper Canyon northward, rock art, birding sites, etc. Contact Billy Martineau (636-110-5931), Anchita at Coahuila, in Colonia Juárez.

 

COPPER CANYON TOURS THAT

BEGIN OR END WITH CASAS GRANDES

 

Because of their frequency and the short time allowed in the Casas Grandes area, the following Copper Canyon tour offerings are not included in the above list of tours and companies. They are of interest to our readership, however, because they all either begin or end with a day in Casas Grandes, giving participants the option of coming a few days early and joining the tour here, or staying a few days afterward, thus affording an opportunity to know and enjoy the laid-back attractions of the Casas Grandes region.

 

Beginning with Casas Grandes

 

Globus Tours go from Tucson (stopping at Tombstone) to the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes and in the morning visit Casas Grandes for a pottery demonstration, the Museum of Northern Cultures, and the ruins of Paquimé. Continuing on to Chihuahua City, the rest of the nine-day tour includes Creel, Divisadero, El Fuerte by train, San Carlos, and back to Tucson. This tour does not visit Mata Ortiz. Book through AffordableTours (800-935-2620).  www.AffordableTours.com.

 

Sep  12, 26                              $1520

Oct  10, 24                               $1520

Nov  7                                      $1520

 

2011

Feb  10                                    $1619

Mar  6, 20                                $1619

 

Grand Circle Travel operates tours from Tucson throughout the year except for July and August, visiting on the first day the Mormon settlement of Colonia Juárez, the historic Hacienda de San Diego, and the pottery village of Mata Ortiz, and then half of the next day in Casas Grandes at the ruins of Paquimé, before continuing on to Chihuahua City, Divisadero/Copper Canyon, El Fuerte, San Carlos/Guaymas, and Hermosillo, and back to Tucson, a total of 14 days. Limit 40 people. A three-day/two night, pre-trip extension to relax before the trip and become acquainted with the Tucson area is an option.  Contact Grand Circle Travel (800-221-2610, 617-350-7500).  www.gct.com/

 

Sep  12, 26, 30                           $1395

Oct  13, 25                                 $1495

 

History Traveler (877-238-6877) departs Tucson and overnights at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes, then a half-day in Casas Grandes visiting the Museum of Northern Cultures and the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, before continuing to Chihuahua, Creel, Divisadero, El Fuerte, San Carlos (two nights), and return to Tucson, a total of nine days. Prices are for double occupancy, add $430 for single. (Note: Same tour with two-day extension in Tucson $2129, add $598 for single.)  www.historytravel.com

 

May  2, 16                                  $1689

Sep  12, 26                                 $1689

Oct  10, 24                                 $1689

Nov  7                                         $1689

 

2011

Feb  10                                       $1799

Mar  6, 20                                  $1799


Mexico Adventures Ltd  departs El Paso first and third Saturday of every month, provided there are six or more paid travelers, for a seven-day tour by motor coach or van, and rail. The first day, they visit Casas Grandes’ Museum of Northern Cultures, the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé, and the Mormon settlement of Colonia Juárez. Overnighting at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes, they continue on to Creel, El Fuerte (two nights), Divisadero, Chihuahua, and return to El Paso. $1190 double occupancy ($1520 single). They also offer custom tours to the Casas Grandes area and Mata Ortiz. Mexico Adventures Ltd (800-206-8132), 10427 Janway Dr, El Paso TX 79925. mexadv[at]coppercanyon.com.mx

www.coppercanyon.com.mx

 

Motodiscovery, the leading worldwide motorcycle tour operator, offers a seven-day Copper Canyon Road Tour. Starting in El Paso, the bikers first visit Casas Grandes (but not Mata Ortiz), then continue to Creel and the Copper Canyon, Hidalgo de Parral, Chihuahua City, and return to El Paso. Longest day 245 miles, shortest 150, total miles 1200. Your own bike, $2249 per person, double occupancy (single supplement $350). Motorcycle rentals available. Contact Skip Mascorro (800-233-0564, 830-438-7744, fax 7745), MotoDiscovery, 22200 State Highway 46 West, Spring Branch, TX 78070. info[at]motodiscovery.com   www.motodiscovery.com

 

Ending with Casas Grandes:

 

A CLOSER LOOK TOURS   Agustín Caparros conducts from Phoenix/Tucson a seven-day motorcoach/rail tour to the beaches of the Sea of Cortez and Copper Canyon, ending with a day in Casas Grandes. Departing Phoenix every Saturday, September through May, the tours arrive at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes the following Thursday evening. On the final day, they visit the ruins of Paquimé and the Museum of Northern Cultures and witness a pottery-making demonstration by the Manuel Olivas family. Cost $1300 double occupancy, $1600 single. This group does not go to Mata Ortiz, but Agustín offers a three-day tour to the village for ten or more persons when there is interest.  Contact Agustín Caparros or his son, Collin (602-938-0951, toll-free 877-938-0951), A Closer Look Tours, Inc., Phoenix AZ  acloserlooktours[at]aol.com  www.acloserlooktours.com

 

Sep  5, 12, 19, 26

Oct  3, 10, 17, 24, 31

Nov  7, 14, 21, 28

Dec  5, 12

 

2011

Jan  9, 16, 23, 30

Feb  6, 8, 13, 15, 20, 22, 24, 27

Mar  1, 6, 8, 10, 13, 15, 20, 22, 27

Apr  5, 10, 12, 17, 19, 24, 26

May  1, 3, 8, 10, 15, 17, 22

Sep  4, 6, 11, 13, 18, 20, 25, 27

Oct  2, 4, 9, 11, 16, 18, 23, 25, 30

Nov  1, 6, 8, 13, 15, 20, 22, 27, 29

Dec  4, 6, 11, 13

 

Argonaut Tours (seven days) depart Tucson/Green Valley for San Carlos (one night), Alamos and El Fuerte (one night), Divisadero (two nights), Creel and Cuauhtémoc (one night), and Casas Grandes/Mata Ortiz (one night), returning via Palomas. Arriving midday at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes they spend an afternoon in Mata Ortiz, seeing an outdoor firing by master potter Jorge Quintana and visiting in the homes and workshops of potters. This tour does not visit the Museum or the prehistoric ruins of Paquimé. Farewell dinner at La Finca de Don Cruz, Casas Grandes. $1049 double occupancy includes two American breakfasts, four lunches and dinners. Pick-up points include Tucson/Green Valley, Sierra Vista, and Phoenix/Sun City West (same tour departs on different dates from Sierra Vista and from Phoenix area). Tour director is Fernanda Morillón. $1282/person double occupancy (single $339). Contact Clara or Stuart Milton (520-325-4321 or toll-free 866-508-6877), owners, Argonaut Tours, 110 S. Church Ave., Suite 4192, La Placita Village, Tucson, AZ 85701.  argonaut1[at]flash.net  stuart240z[at]hotmail.com   www.argonaut-tours.com

 

Tucson/Green Valley               Phoenix (Sun City West)

 

     Sep  23

     Oct  15

 

Brendan Tours (800-935-2620) offers Mexico’s Copper Canyon, a nine-day tour, departing Phoenix/Tucson for San Carlos, Alamos, El Fuerte, Copper Canyon, Casas Grandes, and return to Phoenix. They arrive on the seventh day at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes in time for a pottery firing and a farewell dinner. In the morning, before returning to Phoenix, they visit the museum and ruins of Paquimé. This tour does not visit Mata Ortiz. Book through AffordableTours (800-935-2620).  www.AffordableTours.com

 

Apr  30                                    $1519

May  7, 14                                $1519

May  21                                   $1424

Sep  3, 10, 17, 24                    $1519

Oct  1, 8, 15, 22, 29                 $1519

Nov  5, 12, 19, 26                    $1519

Dec  3, 10                                $1424

 

EXPLORITAS (formerly Elderhostel/Road Scholar), offers a 12-day tour from San Diego, Copper Canyon and Casas Grandes: History of the Ancients (Program No. 18765). These groups are small and receive much special attention. See web site for detailed itinerary. The group flies from San Diego to Los Mochis, spends a day in El Fuerte and a Mayo Indian village, five days in the Copper Canyon (Bahuichivo, Cerocahui, Cerro Gallego, Divisadero, Creel, Basaseachic Falls), a day in Chihuahua City, and a day-and-a-half in Casas Grandes visiting the ruined city of Paquimé and the art-pottery village of Mata Ortiz, finishing up at El Paso. Cost $2795. Contact Exploritas (800-454-5768), 11 Avenue de Lafayette, Boston MA 02111-1746.  registration[a]exploritas.org   www.exploritas.org    

 

Oct  6         

 

Trafalgar Tours offers seven- and nine-day tours departing Phoenix/Tucson for San Carlos, Alamos, El Fuerte, Copper Canyon, and Casas Grandes, and returning to Tucson/Phoenix. ( The tours are essentially alike except that the nine-day tour counts arrival and departure days, which the seven-day does not, and includes several additional activities: visiting a pearl farm at San Carlos, seeing indigenous dances at Alamos, visiting a Tarahumara curandero, and witnessing a pottery firing at Casas Grandes.) They arrive in Nuevo Casas Grandes for a farewell dinner at the Hotel Hacienda and in the morning, before departing for Tucson/Phoenix, visit the museum and ruins of Paquimé. These tours do not visit Mata Ortiz. Book through AffordableTours (800-935-2620).  www.AffordableTours.com

 

Seven-Day                                        Nine-Day

May  22                $1238                   May  21                 $1349

Sep  4,18, 25,       $1238                   Sep  3, 17, 24       $1439

Oct  2, 9, 16, 23   $1238                   Oct  1, 8, 15, 22   $1439

Nov  6, 13, 20       $1238                   Nov  5, 12, 19       $1439

Dec  4, 11             $1238                   Dec  3, 10             $1349

 

2011                                                 2011

Jan  15, 29           $1238                   Jan 14, 28            $1349

Feb  5, 19             $1238                   Feb  4, 18              $1439

Mar  19, 26           $1238                   Mar  4, 18, 25       $1439

 

Travel Alliance Tours (800-935-2620) offers Copper Canyon, Mexico, an eight-day tour, departing Phoenix/Tucson for San Carlos, Alamos, El Fuerte, Copper Canyons, Casas Grandes, and return to Phoenix. They arrive on the seventh day at the Hotel Hacienda in Nuevo Casas Grandes in time for a pottery firing and a farewell dinner. In the morning, before returning to Phoenix, they visit the museum and ruins of Paquimé. Cost $1283. This tour does not visit Mata Ortiz. Book through AffordableTours (800-935-2620).  www.AffordableTours.com

 

Oct  9         

 

2011

Jan  29

Feb  12

Mar  12, 19, 26

Apr  9, 16, 30

May  21

Oct  8, 15, 22

Nov  5, 12, 19, 26

Dec  10

 

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